Crocodile Stitch Owl Hat (Pattern)

owl hats

Hello, everyone!  I know it’s been a while, but there has been very little time for crocheting anything new with my two little people running around and destroying my house.  Luckily, my brain is still firing up every now and then and giving me new ideas to try!  My latest idea is an owl hat that uses crocodile stitches to create a feathered look.

I suggest that if you are unfamiliar with the crocodile stitch, that you check out a tutorial on YouTube.  I liked this one by Nadelspiel, but be careful because the tutorial does not use the same stitches, or amount of stitches, as my pattern below.  This is just to help you learn how to work this wonky stitch.  The crocodile stitch can be very intimidating, but once you get the hang of it, it might just be one of your favorites!

** If you’d like to bookmark this pattern on ravelry, you can find it here!

Now, for a little back-story on how I made the two pictured hats, I will tell you that the pink hat was made using a G-hook and a longer starting chain (96) because this was my first attempt, and the green hat was made using an H-hook.  They turned out to be almost the exact same size. I have a VERY tight stitch, so most people will need to use a G-hook, and follow the below pattern with a starting chain of 90 stitches (I dropped the stitch count and used a larger hook because 96 stitches is A LOT of stitches!), to make a good sized kids hat.  If you have a crazy tight stitch (you’ll know if you’ve ever tried to make a hat using an adult sized pattern and it turns out to fit a newborn), then use an H-hook!

I have to give a huge shout out to Yeeli for helping me test this pattern!  Without her help, this would have been a hugely confusing mess!  Turns out that pattern writing is not my strong suit!  Go check out her beautiful crocheted items on Facebook at Yeeli’s Little Corner!

Things you need:

**I used Caron Simply Soft (green hat) and Stitch Studio by Nicole (pink hat) to make these hats.  Caron is a worsted weight 4 and Stitch Studio is a worsted weight 3 (typically called DK weight), but since Caron is pretty thin, they ended up working up the exact same way.  I will note that I started working one up in a typical worsted weight 4 yarn, Vanna’s Choice, with and H hook, and the hat was a good 1/2 bigger across when lying flat.  It’d be a good choice if you’d like to make and adult sized hat though!

  • 1 skein of variegated yarn
  • 1 skein of a complimentary color
  • A little bit of white yarn for the eyes
  • A little bit of black yarn for the pupils
  • A little bit of yellow or orange yarn for the beak
  • H Hook (if you have a tight stitch) and G Hook (if you have a loose stitch and for the eyes and beak)
  • Tapestry Needle

Stitches Used:

  • Chain (ch)
  • Single Crochet (sc)
  • Slip Stitch (slst)
  • Double Crochet (dc)
  • Treble Crochet (tr)

Gauge: (Remember, these are made with an incredibly tight stitch.  If you’re not coming close, please go down a size hook (if yours is too big) or up a size in hook (if yours is too small) to reach as close to the gauge as you can.  The hat is for a kid (fits my almost 2yo and my 4.5 year old perfectly), but you’ll notice the finished product is larger than you’d typically want a child’s hat.  This is to be sure the crocodile stitches don’t stretch.  You want to see those intricately worked stitches, not your kids forehead!

  • H hook hat – Finished hat size = 9.5″ x 7.5″
    • 4 Crocodile Stitches – 5″ x 1.25″
    • DC 2×2″ block – 9 stitches wide by 5 rows tall

The Pattern:

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  • Starting with variegated yarn – Chain 90 and join chain together with a slst into first chain.  Make sure your chain is not twisted
  • Row 1 – Ch 1, 1 sc in each chain, join to ch 1 (90)
  • Row 2 – Chain 4, tr stitch in same st (counts as your first V-Stitch), *ch 1, skip 2 st, 1 tr st in next stitch, ch 1, skip 2 st, 1tr-ch1-1tr in same st* *Continue around.  You will skip the last two stitches and slst to the 3rd chain space in your first chain 4 to join. You should have 15 V-Stitches and 15 Single Treble Stitches.
  • Row 3 – Ch 3 (counts as first DC), 5 dc around first post of the V Stitch, Ch 1, 6 dc around second post in V-Stitch. (This is your first crocodile Stitch or “feather”), slst into top of single tr, *6dc around first post of next V-Stitch, ch1, 6dc around second post of V-Stitch, slst into the top of the next single tr* *Continue around until you’ve slip stitched into the final single tr.
  • Rows 4 – Chain 4 and tr into same stitch (first V-stitch of row 4), ch 1, tr into the space in the middle of the crocodile stitch, ch 1, *V-Stitch (tr-ch1-tr) in the top of the single tr stitch from the previous row, ch 1, tr into the middle of the next crocodile stitch, ch 1* *Continue around and finish with a slst into the 3rd chain on the first chain 4.
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How your V-Stitches and Treble Stitches line up with your Crocodile Stitches
  • Row 5 – Repeat row 3
  • Row 6-13 – Repeat rows 4 and 3 until you have 6 rows of crocodile stitches.
  • Row 14 – **Switch to solid colored yarn** Chain 2 (counts as first dc) – DC in each stitch around ** A helpful tip here is that each crocodile stitch has 6 stitches across the top, so 6×15 will give you your 90 dc’s needed.** slst to the top of chain 2 to join. (90)
  • Row 15-20 – DC in each stitch around.  Cut yarn, leaving enough to weave in your end.  Weave in all ends on the hat so far (makes it easier when sewing on the eyes and beak so your ends don’t get tangled).

Eyes: Make two!

  • With White Yarn and G-hook – Chain 3 – slst into ch1 space
  • Row 1 – Chain 2 (counts as first dc), 10 dc in circle.  Slst to chain 2. (11)
  • Row 2 – Chain 2 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in each stitch around. Join to chain 2 space. (22)
  • Row 3 – Chain 2 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in next stitch, *1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch* *Continue until end. Join to chain 2 space. (33)
  • Leave a long tail for sewing onto owl.

Pupils:

  • With Black Yarn and G-Hook – Chain 3 – slst into ch1 space
  • Row 1 – Chain 1, 10 sc into circle. (11)
  • Leave a longish end for sewing onto the white part of the eye.

Beak:

  • With Yellow or Orange Yarn and a G-Hook – chain 9, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next 7 chain spaces (8)
  • chain 1 (you chain 1 will count as the first stitch in this and all following rows), turn, sc in next 7 stitches (8)
  • chain 1, turn, sc in next 5 stitches, sc2tog (7)
  • chain 1, turn, sc in next 4 stitches, sc2tog (6)
  • chain 1, turn, sc in next 3 stitches, sc2tog (5)
  • chain 1, turn, sc in next 2 stitches, sc2tog (4)
  • chain 1, turn, sc in next stitch, sc2tog (3)
  • chain 1, turn, sc2tog (2)
  • chain 1, slst in next stitch (1)
  • leave a long tail for sewing onto owl

 

To finish the hat:

Start by sewing on the beak in the middle of the front of the hat (the back of the hat will have the seam down the middle).

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I know, I know.  It doesn’t look like a huge deal, but trust me, you’ll be annoyed if this ends up in the front!

Next, you can either sew the pupil onto the eye, and then sew the finished eye onto the hat, or, you can sew the white part onto the hat and then the sew the pupil on.  Sometimes sewing the pupil on last will help keep the eye from any popping or puckering.

After you’re finished sewing on the beak and eyes, you will whip stitch the top of the hat closed.  This tutorial is great to watch if you haven’t tried it before!

I do ear tassels a little different.  You can make actual tassels, if you’d like.  I’ve never tried them, so I have no helpful tips.  What I do is I cut 8 pieces of yarn at 8″ long for each side (so 16 pieces total).  I then fold the 8 pieces in half, and pull the center through the corner of the hat with my hook.  After the middle is through, put your fingers into the loop, and pull the ends through until they are tight.  I’ve had no problems keeping pieces on my hats or amigurumi toys by doing this, and it’s super simple!  Here are some pictures of this being done on a fleece blanket for a good visual.

Now you are done!  Your little one can now enjoy their adorable owl hat, and you can rest your weary, sore crocodile stitch fingers.

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My little monsters in their owl hats. It’s currently 8 degrees outside, so this is the best picture I could get!

** Please feel free sell any hats made using this product, but please give credit for my pattern when doing so. **

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Crochet V-Stitch Beanie

Hello, everyone!  I had a bit of time of myself this past weekend.  Granted, I was sick, but even sick time to yourself is rare when you are a mom of two tiny humans.  So, I worked up a new hat pattern.  

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Honestly, the stitches used in this hat are simple, and have probably been put together in many different ways, or even this same exact way.  I apologize if it looks exactly like any other patterns out there, I promise I just “winged” it myself while feeling pitiful in bed.

So, here is my V-Stitch Crochet Beanie Pattern!

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What you’ll need:

  • Tapestry Needle
  • H Hook
  • Yarn in two different colors (I used Stitch Studio by Nicole which is a light weight 3 (DK) yarn)

Pattern:

Ribbed band:

  • Chain 9
  • DC in 2nd ch from hook (counts as first DC). 1 DC in each of the next 7 chain spaces (8 total DC Stitches)
  • CH2 – Turn – 1 DC in BLO in each stitch (8)
  • Repeat step 3 until desired length.  (Make sure you end with an even number of rows.  I did 44 rows and the hat fits a little lose, but nice, on my 4 year old, and fits a little tight on me, but you can always refer to a hat sizing chart and measure as you go!)
  • Once desired length is met, slip stitch the two ends together to form a circle for the hat band.
  • Weave in ends.

V-Stitch Hat:

  • Slip stitch into the ribbed band, chain 1, SC across the top of the band.  Slip stitch into chain 1. 
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SC across the top of the ribbed band. 
  • Chain 3 and DC in same stitch (This counts as first V-Stitch).  *Skip the next stitch.  1DC, ch 1, 1DC in next stitch.*  *Repeat to end and slip stitch into 2nd chain from chain 3 in beginning.
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First row of V-Stitches
  • Repeat the previous step, with V-stitches always in the chain 1 spaces from the previous rounds, until hat reaches desired length.  (I did 18 rows).
  • Close the top of hat and add a pom pom, or not.  It looks great either way!  
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V-Stitch rainbow beanie without a pompom
  • If you need help on how to close the top of a hat, I found this tutorial VERY helpful! I did not know this process on the blue and pink hat, but used it on the mint and purple, and I like the look of the mint and purple so much more!  I tried this method both with a hook, and with a tapestry needle.  There is no difference in the finished appearance, so try them both and see which is easiest for you!

 

I hope you enjoy making some cute v-stitch beanies!  Please feel free to sell anything you make with this pattern!

 

 

Corner To Corner Monkey Blanket

NOTE:  I wrote this post right after Christmas but didn’t want to publish it until I had the finished measurement on the blanket.  It took me until today, July 25th, to actually go into my daughters room an accomplish this goal.  Momming is hard, people.

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Well, everyone, I’ve done it!  I finished the monkey blanket for my daughter, and I finished two days before Christmas! Phew, close one.  I’m pretty sure she likes it, since it hasn’t left her bed since she opened it, and that makes me oh so happy to have put in so much time, yarn, and patience (holy moly weaving in ends)!

I’d like to share the pattern with you, but since it’s a corner to corner (c2c), I will not be writing it out, it’ll just be in graph form.  There are a ton of tutorials on YouTube for learning how to do a c2c if you’ve never tried one.  My favorite is this one from Repeat Crafter Me.  For some reason I always forget how to get started, no matter how many of these I do, so I watch this video every time I start a new c2c project!  I’m forgetful.  Anyway, here is my monkey blanket in all it’s glory!

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Tada!  The finished measurement is about 31″x 39″, but if I blocked it I think it would be more around 33″ x 40″ because corner to corner, width wise, is 33, but side to side in the middle, width wise, is only 31″.  I’m far, far, far too lazy, at this point in life, to block a blanket though.  I hope you can forgive me for that.  It’s a perfect size for my 3.5 year old though!  (Note:  She’s now four and it’s still great!)

 

Corner To Corner Monkey Blanket

What you will need:

J Hook

Tapestry Needle

Yarn
-I used Stitch Studio by Nicole yarn for the background (Mint), Monkey body (Peach Puff), and Face (Sheep White).  I used Caron Simply Soft in Black for the mouth and eyes.  You can use whatever colors you think looks best.  I used these particular colors because they were fun and bright, and because I had them lying around ready to use (there was a sale on this brand and each skein was only $1 instead of $4!!!!).  I think I used 3-4 skeins for the background color, 2 for the monkey body, less than 1 for the face, and just a little for the mouth and eyes.  I’m not sure on the exact amount because I actually had many skeins all going at once to cut down on my ends to sew in.  It was so nice to only have a million ends to sew in instead of two million.

c2c-monkey-large

I realize now that the picture of my finished blanket is the backside of the blanket, but as you can tell, the back will look just as good as the front!  Double sided monkey fun!

I really hope you all enjoy this new pattern, and I hope to see some monkey blanket pictures floating around on the internet someday!

*** Feel free to sell items made from this pattern, but please link back to my blog for credit on the pattern!  Thank you! ***

-Nikki

A Monkey In Progress…

I’m sorry I’ve just run off and left you all high and dry after my Little Fall Ghostie post.  I have just been so exhausted with a three year old who started preschool, a baby who is learning that he wants to get to everything, but can’t yet, and I’m also battling a case of mastitis which I got AFTER I stopped breastfeeding (not my choice, my body made the decision for me… again).  Anyway, things have been nutty, but I have been working on a very big project in my spare time.

For Christmas this year, I am working on a blanket for my daughter.  I’m not sure exactly how long it is going to be yet, but it’ll be over two feet wide.  It’s a c2c (corner to corner) blanket and the image on it will be a monkey.  It’s my own design that I made using my cross-stitch pattern making software, PC Stitch 10.  I originally bought this to design, well, cross-stitch patterns, but once it finally hit me that I love crochet so much more (mmm.. yarn!), and cross-stitch took up way more time, I started making c2c patterns and I haven’t stopped since.  You may remember my post about my chick pillow.  That was my very first original c2c pattern.  This monkey blanket will be the second one I’ve actually made.  After my monkey, I have grand plans for a Nintendo themed blanket…..

…and maybe, if I’m lucky, I’ll get one of these, or both of these, done within the next five years.  *Insert exhausted, only half kidding laugh here*

Sorry for not having any pictures or really any great information for you at this time!  I honestly just wanted to share where I’ve been so you don’t file a missing bloggers report.  You guys would do that, right?  You’d worry?  D’awww!

I also want to thank everyone who’s been here to support me.  My Little Fall Ghostie post was viewed over 250 times!  That is AMAZING!! I am very grateful and happy that you all seemed to like him so much.  I hope to create a lot more things for you to create.  Until then, keep hooking, ladies and gents

Just to give you something pretty to look at, here is a skull shawl I made last year (… or was it two years ago…?) for a friend of mine.  Happy October!

redskullscarf

A Little Fall Ghostie

I’d like to share another pattern I’ve come up with recently.  It’s another super easy, super quick pattern.  This time, it’s an adorable ghostie!

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My First Ghostie

There can never be too many Fall and Halloween decor items.  That’s my own personal opinion, of course, but I haven’t met anyone who would disagree.  Fall is a magical time of the year when you can start feeling cozy in your comfy sweaters, it’s not a million degrees outside, and pumpkin everything is in every store.  Hey, even candy corn is back!  Who doesn’t love a little candy corn in life?  Speaking of which…

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Candy Corn Ghostie!

This ghostie pattern is not for a stuffed decoration.  He is hallow, and that’s one of the reasons he is so easy and quick to make.  No need to make a bottom, or even have polyfil on hand.  Hooray!

A Little Fall Ghostie Pattern:

Materials Needed:
Lily Sugar N’ Cream Yarn in white (for solid white ghost) or white, orange, and sunshine (for candy corn version)
Size G hook (4.25mm)
Safety Eyes
Black Thread
Stitch Marker
Tapestry Needle

Stitches Used:
Slip Stitch
Single Crochet (SC)
Double Crochet (DC)

Pattern is crocheted in the round

Pattern:

BODY
Round 1:  Starting with white yarn — Chain 2 – SC 6 into 2nd chain from hook (6)
Round 2:  2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *2 SC in first stitch, 1 in next stitch* *Repeat around (18)
Round 4:  1 SC in each stitch (18)
Round 5: (If you’re marking a candy corn version, start this round with orange yarn) *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next two stitches* *Repeat around (24)
Round 6-11: (If making a candy corn version, start round 9 with yellow yarn) SC in each stitch around (24)
Round 12: *Slip stitch into first stitch, in second stitch (SC, DC, SC)* *Repeat around, ending with another slip stitch into the first stitch.  Leave a tail for weaving in, cut yarn, and weave in tail.

ARMS (Make Two) 
(If making candy corn version, make arms using orange yarn)
Round 1: chain 2 – SC 6 into 2nd chain from hook (6)
Round 2-4: SC in each stitch around (6)
Leave tail for sewing arm onto ghost, cut yarn, *sew arms onto ghost.

*I’d suggest putting on safety eyes and sewing on mouth before attaching arms, so you can make sure everything lines up well.

I played around with eye placement and mouth designs to make each face a little unique.  I hope you enjoy making your own ghostie face!
Now you are done!  That was super easy, wasn’t it?  I hope you enjoy your adorable ghost friends.  They are easy enough to gift to a Halloween lover in your life!  I already have!

I’d love to see pictures of your finished ghosties!  You can post them to ravelry (I should have the pattern up there soon) or tag me on Instagram (yawnsandyarn)!

Please feel free to sell your finished product, but please link back to my blog for pattern credit!

Tiny Jellyfish Pattern

Hello, everyone!  It’s been… busy.  Not busy in a “I have to meet this deadline!” kind of way, but busy in a “holy cow, two kids guys.  TWO KIDS!”  So, I’m here to write a little something for you all.

I know the jellyfish craze started with One Dog Woof put out her jellyfish pattern.  I saw them EVERYWHERE.  I had four people tell me “you must make one!”  I honestly did not know I had so many friends who loved jellyfish so much, but they are pretty adorable, so I gave one a shot.  He was cute, but with two kids, I just didn’t have time to make so many big jellyfish.  I know that’s lame, it’s not like they are two feet wide and ten feet tall or something, but this is my excuse.

So I came up with a pattern for a tiny jellyfish for all us busy/lazy crocheters out there.  It makes you feel productive in half the time!

Tiny Jellyfish

I used Sugar n’ Cream yarn with a G hook (4.25mm).  This is crocheted in the round.

Stitches used:

Chain
Slip Stitch
SC – Single Crochet

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My First Tiny Jelly — My daughter immediately stole him.

For the Head:

Round 1: Chain 2 and SC 6 into second chain from hook (6)
Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: *2 SC in first stitch – 1 SC in next stitch* *Repeat around (18)
Round 4:  SC in each stitch around (18)
Round 5: *2 SC in first stitch – 1 SC in next two stitches*  *Repeat around (24)
Round 6-8:  1 SC in each stitch around (24)
To Finish:  Slip stitch into first stitch.  Leave a tail of yarn to weave in.  Weave it in now to get it over with.  (right?  Weaving in ends… ugh)

For the bottom of the Head:

Round 1:  Chain 2 and SC 6 into second chain from hook (6)
Round 2:  2 SC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3:  *2 SC in first stitch  – 1 SC in next stitch* *Repeat around (18)
Round 4:  *2 SC in first stitch – 1 SC in next two stitches* *Repeat around (24)
To Finish:  Slip stitch into first stitch.  Leave a tail of yarn to weave in.

For the tentacles:

I prefer my tentacles to all be the same length.  Call it OCD, if you must, but you are free to make them all different lengths, or longer, or shorter.  This is just the way I did it.

Row 1:  Chain 30 (or 40 — I like the look of the longer tentacle too)
Row 2: *SC in second chain from hook – 2 SC in next chain* *Repeat until the end of the chain*
Leave a tail for attaching to bottom piece
(Make 3 of these – or 4 – or 12)

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I made Jack “Jelly”ington with the longer 40 chain tentacles.

You then want to attach your tentacles to your bottom piece.  I’d like to tell you I weaved the ends into it to make it super secure, but I didn’t.  Instead, I just pulled each of the two strands per tentacle (one from the start of the chain and the tail from the end), up through the bottom piece and tied them in a triple knot.  Unless you’ve got kids swinging them around their heads, they won’t go anywhere.  If your kids are jellyfish tossers, please weave in the ends as well to make them more secure.

Here is where you decide if you want your jelly to have a face or not.  If so, attach safety eyes and sew on a mouth.  Or just use safety eyes.  Or just a mouth… although I’m not sure that would make much sense.  You can also crochet eyes, or use felt for eyes, or buttons, or any other crafty eye things you can think of.  I’d love to see pictures!

After the tentacles are attached, line up the bottom and top pieces together and SC them together into each of the 24 stitches around.  You can also sew them together.  I’ve done this both ways.  Sewing creates less of a lip around the bottom, so it just depends on if you’d rather see more of the bottom or not.  SC hides more of the bottom piece that sewing.  Weave in remaining ends.

Then attach a string at the top if you want!  These work up super fast.  I think I’ve made one in about an hour (and I’m pretty slow).

The Frankenjelly top and bottom were sewn together.  The Cutie-Patootie Jelly was SC together.  You can probably see the difference between the two different styles.

Feel free to make as many as you’d like for gifts, or to sell.  If you do sell your finished work, please link back to my blog for pattern credit!  Thank you!

I hope you all enjoy this pattern!  Please let me know if you give it a try, and what kinds of fun things you did with it!

 

My Very First Pattern – C2C Chick

The first time I saw a c2c pattern, I thought to myself “whoa, how on earth did someone make a picture with crochet?”  I had been making blankets and hats (not very well, I just cannot size a hat to save my life, even following a pattern), but I had never seen anything like this before.  It’s no shock to anyone familiar with crochet that I found my first c2c pattern on the Repeat Crafter Me blog, which is absolutely 100% amazeballs.  If you haven’t checked it out, do so now.  I’ll wait.  (psss… she’s on instagram and facebook too… go ahead, i’ll keep waiting).

So, I was inspired, and just so happened to have some software that might work for such a project.  You see, I also cross stitch.  Well, I mean, I used to.  I just can’t get myself to do it now that I have two kids.  One, I just know I’d lose a needle and assume it was inside of one of my kids, and two, I’m horribly slow at a cross stitching because I am a perfectionist.  I will count, double count, and triple count the stitches.  I will change the thread if the stitch doesn’t look identical to the one beside it.  It’s a long process.  I love the outcome, but I just can’t even right now, you know?  So, I’m putting my cross stitch software (PC Stitch) to good use by making some c2c patterns, and my first was a chick.

It didn’t take me long to make the pattern itself.  I started really small.  It’s only 15×15 (not inches, blocks), and it took me about 3 hours to finish the front.  I then did a solid white back and stitched them together with a single crochet stitch.  I was going to add a fancier border, but upon asking my husband if I should, he replied with “I don’t really care for those frilly borders.”  Fair enough. Plus, I was tired (I was 8.5 months pregnant at the time).  Here are some pictures of the final product…

The biggest thing I learned from this experiment is that I LOVE making c2c pictures like this.  I mean, totally love it, so much.  And also, you have so many ends to sew in.  I mean, maybe I’m doing it wrong, and there is a hidden trick, but I had just a crazy amount of ends… see…

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Phew.

My daughters finished Easter basket from us was filled with handmade crocheted items.  Other than this chick pillow, I made a amigurumi turtle (which I was too lazy to put legs on), eight easter eggs, and a quicky washcloth I made up.

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If you’d like to give this pattern a whirl, please feel free to do so!  Just remember that if you’d like to sell the finished product, link back to my blog and give me some credit, please!  Please do not publish this pattern as your own.

Just a warning, I have no idea how to make this pattern downloadable to you.  I will have to talk to my tech savvy husband about that and get back to you, if that’s something anyone is interested in!

c2c chick

I used Caron simple soft yarn in white, sunshine, neon orange, and black, and I’m almost positive I used a size H hook (don’t quote me on that).  The final squares were each 9×9 and I bought an 8×8 pillow form on Etsy to go inside.  It fit like a glove.

I hope you all enjoy this pattern.  I hope to make more to share with you!