In my opinion, there is no time that is too early to start thinking about Halloween. I think about Halloween and Fall pretty much daily. The weather, the decorations, the fun! Besides horror movies, it’s the absolute most perfect time of the year
So, in the spirit of non-stop Halloween, I have come up with a few Halloween graphs for C2C projects. I will only be able to complete a few of them before the season begins, but I will be sharing all of the graphs with you so that you can all get to work crocheting some adorable C2C pillows, or even complete all of the graphs and stitch them together for a cute Halloween throw!
This is graph 1 of 9 to be released. Please be patient with me as I try to release them all in a timely manner, my kids don’t really care all that much about my desire to share patterns with the world. haha
C2C Spider Graph!
Yarn – Caron Simply Soft:
1 skein of white
2 skeins of black
*** I HIGHLY recommend using multiple skeins at once, or utilizing bobbins. This project has a lot of color changes. Thankfully it is the most difficult one of the 9, which is why it’s the first posted. Feel free to cry a little once you see all the ends that need to be weaved in. ***
Hook – H (5.0 mm)
Pillow Form – (I ended up needing a 14×14, but I have a very tight stitch. Yours could end up needing a different size, so please wait until you’ve finished the first half and measured before ordering your pillow form.)
Hello, everyone! A long while ago, I sketched out a pattern design for an awareness ribbon. There are so many people who need us to show our support, for so many different battles. Cancer, ALS, Suicide Prevention, POW MIA, Autism, Domestic Violence… the list, sadly, goes on and on. So, whatever battle you or a loved one is fighting, you can whip up a pillow case as a little reminder to fight, fight, and fight more.
I used Yarn Bee Chunky yarn in Soft Pink, White, and Dark Gray.
3 squares by 3 squares measured 2″ x 2″ (although since it’s a pillow case, the gauge really isn’t a big deal, you can make it whatever size you’d like and find a pillow form to fit it).
My finished pillow case, without the border, lying flat, measured 13″ x 13″ and I used a 14″ x 14″ pillow form inside.
The graphs! (I’m still attempting to make a PDF file, please stay tuned…)
The back with heart: (You can absolutely choose to make the back panel solid! I actually created this heart as a fix for running out of gray yarn with just three squares left! It turned out to be a very happy accident!)
I finished the pillow case off by single crocheting the two panels together along three sides, inserting the pillow form, and single crocheting the fourth side together to close. I did a ch2 on each corner to give it a nice pointy corner appearance. I think the next time I make one I may try using a whip stitch to see which I like better. Let me know if you try it that way!
Here are a few helpful lists for ribbons colors that I found on trusty Google!
Please feel free to sell goods made with this pattern. Please do not use my pictures as your own.
Hello again, everyone! I’ve worked up a little Easter pattern for you all. It’s simple and quick (my favorite type of crochet pattern), and sure to bring a smile to those around it. In fact, my niece snatched this one up as soon as I finished weaving in the last end! She and my dad decided that he looked like a Jellybean, so that’s what she named him. Hello, Jellybean Bunny!
Let’s get started!
Stitches you need to know:
Single Crochet (sc)
Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog)
What you need:
I used Sugar N Cream Yarn in Fleur de Lavande, Beach Glass, and a tiny speck of pink for the nose. You can use any colors you’d like!
6mm Safety Eyes
Pattern: This pattern is made in the round. Do not join.
The Body: **Note: You may want to make the ears first so you can sew them onto your bunny before the body is filled with polyfil and closed!**
Row 1: Starting with solid color of your choice – Chain 2, 6sc in ch 2 space (6)
Row 2: 2sc in each stitch around (12)
Row 3: *1sc in next stitch, 2sc in next stitch* *Continue around (18)
Row 4: *1sc in next two stitches, 2sc in next stitch* * Continue around (24)
Row 5: *1sc in next three stitches, 2sc in next stitch* *Continue around (30)
Row 6: 1sc in each stitch (30)
Row 7-10: Repeat row 6 (30 in each row)
Change color and attach safety eyes between rows 8 and 9. Use your tapestry needle to stitch on a little nose between rows 9 and 10. I also suggest you make the ears now, if you haven’t already, and sew them onto the top of the head. It’s much easier than trying to sew them on once the bunny is filled with polyfil!
Row 11-23: 1sc in each stitch around (30 in each row)
Row 24: In BLO *1sc in next 3 stitches, sc2tog* *Continue around (24)
Row 25: *1sc in next two stitches, sc2tog* *Continue around (18)
Take a moment to stuff your bunny full of polyfil. I like to do this as late as I can so I’m not fighting with it as I continue to stitch!
Row 26: *1sc in next stitch, sc2tog* *Continue around (12)
Row 27: *sc2tog* *Continue around (6)
Close off your bunny. If you are unsure of how to close off an amigurumi piece, please watch this tutorial!
The Ears (Make Two): Also worked in the round
Row 1: Chain 2, 5sc in 2nd ch (5)
Row 2: 2sc in each st around (10)
Row 3: 1sc in next st, 2sc in next st (15)
Row 4: 1sc in each st (15)
Row 5: 1sc in each st (15)
Row 6: 1sc in next 4 stitches, sc2tog, 1sc in next 4 stitches, sc2tog, 1sc in next 3 stitches (13)
Row 7: 1sc in next 3 stitches, sc2tog, 1sc in next 3 stitches, sc2tog, 1sc in next 3 stitches (11)
Row 8: 1sc in each stitch (11)
Row 9: 1sc in next 2 stitches, sc2tog, 1sc in next 2 stitches, sc2tog, 2sc in next st, sc2tog (9)
Row 10: 1sc in each stitch (9)
Do not fill the ears with polyfil. Sew onto the top of the head.
I hope you enjoy this little Jellybean bunny as much as my niece did! Please feel free to sell any bunnies made using this pattern, but please link back to my pattern for credit. Do not claim this pattern as your own and no not use my pictures as your own.
Hello, everyone! I know it’s been a while, but there has been very little time for crocheting anything new with my two little people running around and destroying my house. Luckily, my brain is still firing up every now and then and giving me new ideas to try! My latest idea is an owl hat that uses crocodile stitches to create a feathered look.
I suggest that if you are unfamiliar with the crocodile stitch, that you check out a tutorial on YouTube. I liked this one by Nadelspiel, but be careful because the tutorial does not use the same stitches, or amount of stitches, as my pattern below. This is just to help you learn how to work this wonky stitch. The crocodile stitch can be very intimidating, but once you get the hang of it, it might just be one of your favorites!
** If you’d like to bookmark this pattern on ravelry, you can find it here!
Now, for a little back-story on how I made the two pictured hats, I will tell you that the pink hat was made using a G-hook and a longer starting chain (96) because this was my first attempt, and the green hat was made using an H-hook. They turned out to be almost the exact same size. I have a VERY tight stitch, so most people will need to use a G-hook, and follow the below pattern with a starting chain of 90 stitches (I dropped the stitch count and used a larger hook because 96 stitches is A LOT of stitches!), to make a good sized kids hat. If you have a crazy tight stitch (you’ll know if you’ve ever tried to make a hat using an adult sized pattern and it turns out to fit a newborn), then use an H-hook! ******* UPDATED 1/19/2018 ******* I have heard from the first person to try my pattern, outside of my tester, and she has mentioned that the starting chain of 90, even with a G-hook, is just coming out way too big. I understand. I know my stitch is oddly tight… as an example, I made a hat with an adult sized pattern and it fit a one year old perfectly. I appreciated the feedback, so I am including a note here on starting stitch count. Each crocodile stitch requires a length of 6 stitches. So, if 90 is just a bit too big, try a starting chain of 84. This will give you 14 crocodile stitches in each row. If that is too big, take the starting chain to 78. This will give you 13 crocodile stitches in each row. Just remember that the width of the hat will need to measure 9.5-10″ across. You want to be sure the crocodile stitches do not spread when the hat is worn, or else it really takes away from the look.
I have to give a huge shout out to Yeeli for helping me test this pattern! Without her help, this would have been a hugely confusing mess! Turns out that pattern writing is not my strong suit! Go check out her beautiful crocheted items on Facebook at Yeeli’s Little Corner!
Things you need:
**I used Caron Simply Soft (green hat) and Stitch Studio by Nicole (pink hat) to make these hats. Caron is a worsted weight 4 and Stitch Studio is a worsted weight 3 (typically called DK weight), but since Caron is pretty thin, they ended up working up the exact same way. I will note that I started working one up in a typical worsted weight 4 yarn, Vanna’s Choice, with and H hook, and the hat was a good 1/2 bigger across when lying flat. It’d be a good choice if you’d like to make and adult sized hat though!
1 skein of variegated yarn
1 skein of a complimentary color
A little bit of white yarn for the eyes
A little bit of black yarn for the pupils
A little bit of yellow or orange yarn for the beak
H Hook (if you have a tight stitch) and G Hook (if you have a loose stitch and for the eyes and beak)
Single Crochet (sc)
Slip Stitch (slst)
Double Crochet (dc)
Treble Crochet (tr)
**Gauge: (Remember, these are made with an incredibly tight stitch. If you’re not coming close, please go down a size hook (if yours is too big) or up a size in hook (if yours is too small), or change the amount of the starting chain to reach as close to the gauge as you can. The hat is made to fit a toddler or a child, (fits my almost 2 year old and my 4.5 year old perfectly).
H hook hat – Finished hat size = 9.5″ x 7.5″
4 Crocodile Stitches – 5″ x 1.25″
DC 2×2″ block – 9 stitches wide by 5 rows tall
Starting with variegated yarn – Chain 90 (if this is turning out to make a hat that is just way too big, even with a G-hook, then you can go down in increments of 6. So, a starting chain of 84 (14 crocodile stitches), or 78 (13 crocodile stitches), depending on how much smaller you need to go) and join chain together with a slst into first chain. Make sure your chain is not twisted
Row 1 – Ch 1, 1 sc in each chain, join to ch 1 (90)
Row 2 – Chain 4, tr stitch in same st (counts as your first V-Stitch), *ch 1, skip 2 st, 1 tr st in next stitch, ch 1, skip 2 st, 1tr-ch1-1tr in same st* *Continue around. You will skip the last two stitches and slst to the 3rd chain space in your first chain 4 to join. You should have 15 V-Stitches and 15 Single Treble Stitches.
Row 3 – Ch 3 (counts as first DC), 5 dc around first post of the V Stitch, Ch 1, 6 dc around second post in V-Stitch. (This is your first crocodile Stitch or “feather”), slst into top of single tr, *6dc around first post of next V-Stitch, ch1, 6dc around second post of V-Stitch, slst into the top of the next single tr* *Continue around until you’ve slip stitched into the final single tr.
Rows 4 – Chain 4 and tr into same stitch (first V-stitch of row 4), ch 1, tr into the space in the middle of the crocodile stitch, ch 1, *V-Stitch (tr-ch1-tr) in the top of the single tr stitch from the previous row, ch 1, tr into the middle of the next crocodile stitch, ch 1* *Continue around and finish with a slst into the 3rd chain on the first chain 4.
Row 5 – Repeat row 3
Row 6-13 – Repeat rows 4 and 3 until you have 6 rows of crocodile stitches.
Row 14 – **Switch to solid colored yarn** Chain 2 (counts as first dc) – DC in each stitch around ** A helpful tip here is that each crocodile stitch has 6 stitches across the top, so 6×15 will give you your 90 dc’s needed.** slst to the top of chain 2 to join. (90)
Row 15-20 – DC in each stitch around. Cut yarn, leaving enough to weave in your end. Weave in all ends on the hat so far (makes it easier when sewing on the eyes and beak so your ends don’t get tangled).
Eyes: Make two!
With White Yarn and G-hook – Chain 3 – slst into ch1 space
Row 1 – Chain 2 (counts as first dc), 10 dc in circle. Slst to chain 2. (11)
Row 2 – Chain 2 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in each stitch around. Join to chain 2 space. (22)
Row 3 – Chain 2 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in next stitch, *1 dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch* *Continue until end. Join to chain 2 space. (33)
Leave a long tail for sewing onto owl.
With Black Yarn and G-Hook – Chain 3 – slst into ch1 space
Row 1 – Chain 1, 10 sc into circle. (11)
Leave a longish end for sewing onto the white part of the eye.
With Yellow or Orange Yarn and a G-Hook – chain 9, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next 7 chain spaces (8)
chain 1 (you chain 1 will count as the first stitch in this and all following rows), turn, sc in next 7 stitches (8)
chain 1, turn, sc in next 5 stitches, sc2tog (7)
chain 1, turn, sc in next 4 stitches, sc2tog (6)
chain 1, turn, sc in next 3 stitches, sc2tog (5)
chain 1, turn, sc in next 2 stitches, sc2tog (4)
chain 1, turn, sc in next stitch, sc2tog (3)
chain 1, turn, sc2tog (2)
chain 1, slst in next stitch (1)
leave a long tail for sewing onto owl
To finish the hat:
Start by sewing on the beak in the middle of the front of the hat (the back of the hat will have the seam down the middle).
Next, you can either sew the pupil onto the eye, and then sew the finished eye onto the hat, or, you can sew the white part onto the hat and then the sew the pupil on. Sometimes sewing the pupil on last will help keep the eye from any popping or puckering.
After you’re finished sewing on the beak and eyes, you will whip stitch the top of the hat closed. This tutorial is great to watch if you haven’t tried it before!
I do ear tassels a little different. You can make actual tassels, if you’d like. I’ve never tried them, so I have no helpful tips. What I do is I cut 8 pieces of yarn at 8″ long for each side (so 16 pieces total). I then fold the 8 pieces in half, and pull the center through the corner of the hat with my hook. After the middle is through, put your fingers into the loop, and pull the ends through until they are tight. I’ve had no problems keeping pieces on my hats or amigurumi toys by doing this, and it’s super simple! Here are some pictures of this being done on a fleece blanket for a good visual.
Now you are done! Your little one can now enjoy their adorable owl hat, and you can rest your weary, sore crocodile stitch fingers.
** Please feel free sell any hats made using this product, but please give credit for my pattern when doing so. **
Hello, everyone! I had a bit of time of myself this past weekend. Granted, I was sick, but even sick time to yourself is rare when you are a mom of two tiny humans. So, I worked up a new hat pattern.
Honestly, the stitches used in this hat are simple, and have probably been put together in many different ways, or even this same exact way. I apologize if it looks exactly like any other patterns out there, I promise I just “winged” it myself while feeling pitiful in bed.
So, here is my V-Stitch Crochet Beanie Pattern!
What you’ll need:
Yarn in two different colors (I used Stitch Studio by Nicole which is a light weight 3 (DK) yarn)
DC in 2nd ch from hook (counts as first DC). 1 DC in each of the next 7 chain spaces (8 total DC Stitches)
CH2 – Turn – 1 DC in BLO in each stitch (8)
Repeat step 3 until desired length. (Make sure you end with an even number of rows. I did 44 rows and the hat fits a little lose, but nice, on my 4 year old, and fits a little tight on me, but you can always refer to a hat sizing chart and measure as you go!)
Once desired length is met, slip stitch the two ends together to form a circle for the hat band.
Weave in ends.
Slip stitch into the ribbed band, chain 1, SC across the top of the band. Slip stitch into chain 1.
Chain 3 and DC in same stitch (This counts as first V-Stitch). *Skip the next stitch. 1DC, ch 1, 1DC in next stitch.* *Repeat to end and slip stitch into 2nd chain from chain 3 in beginning.
Repeat the previous step, with V-stitches always in the chain 1 spaces from the previous rounds, until hat reaches desired length. (I did 18 rows).
Close the top of hat and add a pom pom, or not. It looks great either way!
If you need help on how to close the top of a hat, I foundthis tutorial VERY helpful! I did not know this process on the blue and pink hat, but used it on the mint and purple, and I like the look of the mint and purple so much more! I tried this method both with a hook, and with a tapestry needle. There is no difference in the finished appearance, so try them both and see which is easiest for you!
I hope you enjoy making some cute v-stitch beanies! Please feel free to sell anything you make with this pattern!
NOTE: I wrote this post right after Christmas but didn’t want to publish it until I had the finished measurement on the blanket. It took me until today, July 25th, to actually go into my daughters room an accomplish this goal. Momming is hard, people.
Well, everyone, I’ve done it! I finished the monkey blanket for my daughter, and I finished two days before Christmas! Phew, close one. I’m pretty sure she likes it, since it hasn’t left her bed since she opened it, and that makes me oh so happy to have put in so much time, yarn, and patience (holy moly weaving in ends)!
I’d like to share the pattern with you, but since it’s a corner to corner (c2c), I will not be writing it out, it’ll just be in graph form. There are a ton of tutorials on YouTube for learning how to do a c2c if you’ve never tried one. My favorite is this one from Repeat Crafter Me. For some reason I always forget how to get started, no matter how many of these I do, so I watch this video every time I start a new c2c project! I’m forgetful. Anyway, here is my monkey blanket in all it’s glory!
Tada! The finished measurement is about 31″x 39″, but if I blocked it I think it would be more around 33″ x 40″ because corner to corner, width wise, is 33, but side to side in the middle, width wise, is only 31″. I’m far, far, far too lazy, at this point in life, to block a blanket though. I hope you can forgive me for that. It’s a perfect size for my 3.5 year old though! (Note: She’s now four and it’s still great!)
Corner To Corner Monkey Blanket
What you will need:
-I used Stitch Studio by Nicole yarn for the background (Mint), Monkey body (Peach Puff), and Face (Sheep White). I used Caron Simply Soft in Black for the mouth and eyes. You can use whatever colors you think looks best. I used these particular colors because they were fun and bright, and because I had them lying around ready to use (there was a sale on this brand and each skein was only $1 instead of $4!!!!). I think I used 3-4 skeins for the background color, 2 for the monkey body, less than 1 for the face, and just a little for the mouth and eyes. I’m not sure on the exact amount because I actually had many skeins all going at once to cut down on my ends to sew in. It was so nice to only have a million ends to sew in instead of two million.
I realize now that the picture of my finished blanket is the backside of the blanket, but as you can tell, the back will look just as good as the front! Double sided monkey fun!
I really hope you all enjoy this new pattern, and I hope to see some monkey blanket pictures floating around on the internet someday!
*** Feel free to sell items made from this pattern, but please link back to my blog for credit on the pattern! Thank you! ***
I’m sorry I’ve just run off and left you all high and dry after my Little Fall Ghostie post. I have just been so exhausted with a three year old who started preschool, a baby who is learning that he wants to get to everything, but can’t yet, and I’m also battling a case of mastitis which I got AFTER I stopped breastfeeding (not my choice, my body made the decision for me… again). Anyway, things have been nutty, but I have been working on a very big project in my spare time.
For Christmas this year, I am working on a blanket for my daughter. I’m not sure exactly how long it is going to be yet, but it’ll be over two feet wide. It’s a c2c (corner to corner) blanket and the image on it will be a monkey. It’s my own design that I made using my cross-stitch pattern making software, PC Stitch 10. I originally bought this to design, well, cross-stitch patterns, but once it finally hit me that I love crochet so much more (mmm.. yarn!), and cross-stitch took up way more time, I started making c2c patterns and I haven’t stopped since. You may remember my post about my chick pillow. That was my very first original c2c pattern. This monkey blanket will be the second one I’ve actually made. After my monkey, I have grand plans for a Nintendo themed blanket…..
…and maybe, if I’m lucky, I’ll get one of these, or both of these, done within the next five years. *Insert exhausted, only half kidding laugh here*
Sorry for not having any pictures or really any great information for you at this time! I honestly just wanted to share where I’ve been so you don’t file a missing bloggers report. You guys would do that, right? You’d worry? D’awww!
I also want to thank everyone who’s been here to support me. My Little Fall Ghostie post was viewed over 250 times! That is AMAZING!! I am very grateful and happy that you all seemed to like him so much. I hope to create a lot more things for you to create. Until then, keep hooking, ladies and gents
Just to give you something pretty to look at, here is a skull shawl I made last year (… or was it two years ago…?) for a friend of mine. Happy October!